Calling on FOFC's General Knowledge Again (or Hardwood Floors, Anyone?)

[digamma]

Shot in the dark here...

We have really beautiful old pine hardwood floors in our house. We're starting to see some cracking in the wood in certain areas of the house. No real sagging, just a few cracks and some squeaky wood. I've seen wood filler recommended as a possible treatment or cure, but the cracks are not big enough for wood filler. Anyone know of a product that can be used as a type of sealant?

[Swaggs]

Are the cracks in the surface treatment or in the actual wood?

[Jon]

My girlfriend's dad does hardwood floors for a living, including installing parquet basketball floors. I'll try to call him tonite and see what he says.

[digamma]

Are the cracks in the surface treatment or in the actual wood?
The actual wood. The don't reach the sub-flooring though.

[dawgfan]

Just a point of clarification - the term "hardwood flooring" has become synonymous with "wood flooring", but in technical terms, pine is not a hardwood. Fir and Pine are soft woods, easily scratched. Red Oak and White Oak are hardwoods that are commonly used for floors and much more difficult to scratch or gouge.

Another common misconception with flooring is the term "swedish finish" - this term has become synonymous with any kind of floor finish, but in actuality a true swedish finish is a specific kind of solvent-based finish that requires 2 components and an activator. This kind of finish utilizes some particularly nasty solvents and is not frequently used much anymore, but is a very hard and durable finish. Other common finishes are polyurethanes and floor varnishes - these are 'hard' finishes that are solvent based, but don't require a 2-part process or activator. Newer to the market but gaining rapid ground are water-based urethanes. These are hard finishes also, but they tend to not be quite as flexible as the solvent-based varnishes and polyurethanes, but they have the decided advantage of not stinking up the house anywhere near as badly, allowing the occupants to not have to move out during the process. For softer woods, an oil finish may be a better bet. Similar to danish-oil/tung-oil finishes used on furniture and molding, there are harder rubbing oil finishes made for floors. These have the advantage of being a little more flexible and better bets for soft woods like fir and pine. They are also much easier to maintain and touch-up when scratches occur - you clean the affected area, sand a bit and then apply 1-2 coats of spot treatment of the oil finish.

Regarding your situation, are the cracks between the individual wood planks, or within the planks themselves?

Also, do you have any idea of what type of finish is on the floors specifically?

[digamma]

Just a point of clarification - the term "hardwood flooring" has become synonymous with "wood flooring", but in technical terms, pine is not a hardwood. Fir and Pine are soft woods, easily scratched. Red Oak and White Oak are hardwoods that are commonly used for floors and much more difficult to scratch or gouge.

Another common misconception with flooring is the term "swedish finish" - this term has become synonymous with any kind of floor finish, but in actuality a true swedish finish is a specific kind of solvent-based finish that requires 2 components and an activator. This kind of finish utilizes some particularly nasty solvents and is not frequently used much anymore, but is a very hard and durable finish. Other common finishes are polyurethanes and floor varnishes - these are 'hard' finishes that are solvent based, but don't require a 2-part process or activator. Newer to the market but gaining rapid ground are water-based urethanes. These are hard finishes also, but they tend to not be quite as flexible as the solvent-based varnishes and polyurethanes, but they have the decided advantage of not stinking up the house anywhere near as badly, allowing the occupants to not have to move out during the process. For softer woods, an oil finish may be a better bet. Similar to danish-oil/tung-oil finishes used on furniture and molding, there are harder rubbing oil finishes made for floors. These have the advantage of being a little more flexible and better bets for soft woods like fir and pine. They are also much easier to maintain and touch-up when scratches occur - you clean the affected area, sand a bit and then apply 1-2 coats of spot treatment of the oil finish.

Regarding your situation, are the cracks between the individual wood planks, or within the planks themselves?

Also, do you have any idea of what type of finish is on the floors specifically?
Thanks. I really appreciate the information. Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of finish we have.

The cracks are within the planks themselves.

[dawgfan]

I would suggest you consult with a floor refinisher to get the best advice. From what I know about floors (I worked in a paint and stain shop from '89-'95), fillers are a temporary solution - any flex in the flooring is going to cause the fill to pop out at some point; the more flex, the quicker it will pop. I'm guessing here, but your best solution may be to refinish the floors - have them sanded down to remove the remaining existing finish, then fill any gaps and cracks and lay down a new finish. The new finish will help seal in the fill and keep moisture from gaining a foothold in the gaps and cracks.

[digamma]

I would suggest you consult with a floor refinisher to get the best advice. From what I know about floors (I worked in a paint and stain shop from '89-'95), fillers are a temporary solution - any flex in the flooring is going to cause the fill to pop out at some point; the more flex, the quicker it will pop. I'm guessing here, but your best solution may be to refinish the floors - have them sanded down to remove the remaining existing finish, then fill any gaps and cracks and lay down a new finish. The new finish will help seal in the fill and keep moisture from gaining a foothold in the gaps and cracks.
Thanks. I was afraid you might say that. A guy is coming out tomorrow.

[Draft Dodger]

wow - when did Chief Rum change his screenname to dawgfan?

[dawgfan]

Thanks. I was afraid you might say that. A guy is coming out tomorrow.

If it is pine and you do need to refinish, I would suggest considering an oil finish - as I mentioned, they're easier to maintain and to fix spot problem areas than varnishes, polyurethanes or water-based finishes, plus they have a little more flexibility which works better with a softer wood like pine. If you'd had oak flooring I'd have suggested the opposite.

All things considered though, I'd find a good floor refinisher, one that comes recommended from a good local paint and stain hardware store, and follow his advice - I've been out of the business for almost a decade now and things may have changed, especially in regards to water-based finishes.

[dawgfan]

wow - when did Chief Rum change his screenname to dawgfan?

Heh, not quite - a quick primer:

Chief Rum loves the Angels and the Bruins and is somewhat conservative politically;

dawgfan loves the Mariners and the Huskies and is fairly liberal politically;

Any other similarities are strictly coincidental.