Repairing/Replacing Roof Tiles

[st.cronin]

Seems to be trickier than I thought. It almost seems like it would be easier to just replace them all.

Anybody done this? Tricks/hints/tips? This is about a 30 year roof, and I believe these are the original tiles.

[Swaggs]

What are they made out of?

I could give you some tips on asphalt shingles, but I am guessing you are talking about ceramic?

[st.cronin]

What are they made out of?

I could give you some tips on asphalt shingles, but I am guessing you are talking about ceramic?

Asphalt shingles, yes. That's what I've got.

[Swaggs]

What is wrong with them? Just a handful blew off or do you need a new roof altogether?

Most asphalt roofs have a life expectancy of 20-25 years, so you are probably on borrowed time, but if your roof is pretty steep, it might be alright for a little while extra.

[st.cronin]

There's about 25 total that have gone missing. In replacing them, I noticed that many others are pretty worn out, dried and cracking. The roof is not especially steep - no idea of the slope, but I can walk around on it pretty easily.

[st.cronin]

dola

I don't NEED a new roof - it doesn't leak at all, that I know of.

[Swaggs]

There's about 25 total that have gone missing. In replacing them, I noticed that many others are pretty worn out, dried and cracking. The roof is not especially steep - no idea of the slope, but I can walk around on it pretty easily.

If they are cracked and they looked warn, you probably ought to replace it fairly soon.

If your roof does not have a lot of valleys, dormers, skylights, or other odd angles, you could probably do it yourself with some buddies, but it is a pretty crappy job.

Bundles of shingles weigh about 70 lbs and it sucks to carry a bunch of them up a ladder. If the roof is flat enough that you can walk on it, then carrying the shingles up will be the worst part.

Basically, what you would have to do is get a roofing shovel and strip off the old roofing.

Check to see if any of the wood underneath is rotten and needs replaced. Buy some roofing felt (which is a type of tar paper that comes in rolls), roll it out in long sheets and nail it beginning from the bottom of the roof from side to side all the way up to the top in lairs.

Then you run a chalk line from left-to-right across the felt paper. So, you measure from the bottom to the top (in whatever increment of the shingle remains exposed) on the left and right and then snap the chalk line up those lines, so you can put the shingles on evenly (level).

Then you cut shingles (length-wise) into starters (starters are pieces of regular shingles, that you cut into a size that the manufacturer will recommend, that you use to get a first row of shingles--they are all covered by the regular shingles once you get rolling).

Then you just start nailing the shingles from the bottom on up. You usually leave about 6.5-7.5 inches exposed (that is what gives the tile appearance--it will be recommended on the package) and just work your way up, covering the top remainder of each shingle and staggering them (so that the edges of each shingle do not end a the same spot, usually for three courses), so that water cannot run through them. If you don't have any of the odd angles/chimneys/etc, you run them all the way to the top, so that the exposed part goes all the way to the peak of your house.

Then you cap them. You can do that cutting the shingles into thirds and then folding them over the top (leaving the exposed part uncovered) on the last one, you'll have to cut one exposed piece and cover the last tab. Or you can buy a ridge vent (a rolled up vent) and use it over most of the peak. On the top row, you'd need to cover the nailholes with silicone or tar (from a tube).

Basically, it is a pain in the ass job, that you can do yourself if your roof is pretty uncomplicated and square, but, if you can afford it, you'd be better off hiring someone to do it, so that their work is guaranteed. Or, see if any of your buddies have ever done it (if you have anyone that has other worked in carpentry or construction, they should know how to do it pretty easily).

Sorry so long.

[Swaggs]

dola

I don't NEED a new roof - it doesn't leak at all, that I know of.

If you are just replacing a few, what you'll need to do is buy a bundle or two that matches your roof's color.

You'll have to try and cleanly pull up the shingles (see if you can pick the nails or staples that are holding them on) that are immediately above the ones that are missing and tuck the tabs of the new ones underneath, so that only the exposure (the part of the shingle with the "gravel" on it) is showing and matches the ones next to it that are remaining. It is difficult to do, as the normal progression is to begin at the bottom and work your way up, so you'll have to be careful not to damage the existing ones that you pull up. You'll want to try to lift up the existing shingles and nail the tabs of the new ones underneath (as you don't want to leave any nail holes exposed).

I'd definitely, definitely advise that you do it on a cool day (if those exist this time of year down there), as the shingles get flimsy in the heat AND they bond better in the heat, as they have tar painted on the bottoms to seal them.

You can probably do it with a short prybar, hammer, some roofing nails, a blade, and maybe a tube of tar to seal any nails that you might need to leave exposed.

[st.cronin]

Thanks, Swaggs. I think I'm going to replace it, not sure exactly when.

[Mustang]

dola

I don't NEED a new roof - it doesn't leak at all, that I know of.

Goes without saying that you don't want to get to the point where you NEED a new roof.

I helped a friend do his roof and that is the last time that I ever would want to do that freakin' job. Middle of July doing a complete tear off of his roof that had asphalt shingles over cedar shingles. Ugh..

[Motley327]

Long time lurker here. I enjoy reading the site but (normally) never post. I cannot imagine how addictive this board would become if I were a regular poster.

Anyway, this subject is right up my alley. I'm an insurance catastrophe adjuster and this sounds like a text book wind claim. Depending on the age of shingles, condition, and damaged shingles that you are not seeing besides the 25 obvious damaged shingles you may be eligible for a new roof. The cracks you described could be shingles that were damaged by wind when they were lifted up, normally these are horizontal cracks towards the top of the 'tab' of the shingle.

Some insurance companys will replace the entire roof if the roof is to old to be repaired and/or if the shingle is no longer being made. If there was a wind storm within the last year you should be still eligible to receive replacement cost value (RCV) for the roof, which is the actual cash value plus any depreciation of the shingles. Basically the insurance pays for the entire roof minus what your deductible is. If it has been over a year (normally) you still would qualify for an Actual cash value payment (ACV), which is the replacement cost of the roof minus depreciation and deductible.

Depending on your insurance company and the type of policy, hopefully atleast an HO-3 policy, I'd submit a claim and see what happens. Its unlikely that your rates will rise unless you have put in a few claims before.

[Motley327]

Long time lurker here. I enjoy reading the site but (normally) never post. I cannot imagine how addictive this board would become if I were a regular poster.

Anyway, this subject is right up my alley. I'm an insurance catastrophe adjuster and this sounds like a text book wind claim. Depending on the age of shingles, condition, and damaged shingles that you are not seeing besides the 25 obvious damaged shingles you may be eligible for a new roof. The cracks you described could be shingles that were damaged by wind when they were lifted up, normally these are horizontal cracks towards the top of the 'tab' of the shingle.

Some insurance companys will replace the entire roof if the roof is to old to be repaired and/or if the shingle is no longer being made. If there was a wind storm within the last year you should be still eligible to receive replacement cost value (RCV) for the roof, which is the actual cash value plus any depreciation of the shingles. Basically the insurance pays for the entire roof minus what your deductible is. If it has been over a year (normally) you still would qualify for an Actual cash value payment (ACV), which is the replacement cost of the roof minus depreciation and deductible.

Depending on your insurance company and the type of policy, hopefully atleast an HO-3 policy, I'd submit a claim and see what happens. Its unlikely that your rates will rise unless you have put in a few claims before.

[Swaggs]

Long time lurker here. I enjoy reading the site but (normally) never post. I cannot imagine how addictive this board would become if I were a regular poster.

Anyway, this subject is right up my alley. I'm an insurance catastrophe adjuster and this sounds like a text book wind claim. Depending on the age of shingles, condition, and damaged shingles that you are not seeing besides the 25 obvious damaged shingles you may be eligible for a new roof. The cracks you described could be shingles that were damaged by wind when they were lifted up, normally these are horizontal cracks towards the top of the 'tab' of the shingle.

Some insurance companys will replace the entire roof if the roof is to old to be repaired and/or if the shingle is no longer being made. If there was a wind storm within the last year you should be still eligible to receive replacement cost value (RCV) for the roof, which is the actual cash value plus any depreciation of the shingles. Basically the insurance pays for the entire roof minus what your deductible is. If it has been over a year (normally) you still would qualify for an Actual cash value payment (ACV), which is the replacement cost of the roof minus depreciation and deductible.

Depending on your insurance company and the type of policy, hopefully atleast an HO-3 policy, I'd submit a claim and see what happens. Its unlikely that your rates will rise unless you have put in a few claims before.

I am surprised to hear this from an insurance professional, unless you did not notice the age of his roof.

Unless all of the shingles blew down in a single storm, I think this is a slippery slope of a suggestion for a few reasons.

All policies, that I have ever seen, are written so that deductibles are applied per occurrence, rather than cumulatively. So, if the shingles have blown off in different storms over the years, they would be within their rights to charge you a deductible per each occurrence. Unless the wear is very telling, they would probably just take your word for it, but if I were the adjuster in this situation (with a roof that is beyond its recommended life and you not making a prompt report of the damage), I would probably take a real close look at things before agreeing to pay for a new one.

The second problem you might run into is that the adjuster may report your house back to the underwriters for either failing to report a claim in a timely manner (because if shingles blew off your house and you did not promptly report it, you left your house susceptible to further, more expensive damage) and/or keeping your house in poor repair (for not having replaced a roof that is beyond its recommend life expectancy).

Of course, you may end up getting an adjuster, that is just looking to close claims, who would be happy to just write a check and get a file closed, but I would imagine most companies would be hesitant to pay to completely replace a 25-year old roof with a brand new one.

[Motley327]

First off I have to say that Swaggs knows his stuff, not sure what he does for a living but it seems he has dealt with adjusters before.

I did read it as him having a 30 year rated shingle rather than shingles that were 30 years old. Still covered either way, just one is depreciated a lot.

If the shingles were not damaged by one occurrence then it could and probably would be seen as more than one loss and deductibles would be applied separately. On a wind loss it would be tough for the adjuster to say it happened over an extended period unless it was completely obvious. The benefit of a doubt is always given to the insured.

He may have to sign a sworn proof of loss and maybe a non waiver depending on the date of loss. Putting the house up for risk review is a possibility but doubtful unless there is maintenance issues, aggressive dogs, or an unfenced pool.

Didn't mean to turn this thread into insurance policy 101. Sorry for the thread jack. I just seen an an obvious covered peril and thought I would suggest turning in a claim. Its a lot easier than tearing off and replacing the roof by yourself!

Counting the double post I may just double my post count today. :rolleyes: :D

[st.cronin]

Long time lurker here. I enjoy reading the site but (normally) never post. I cannot imagine how addictive this board would become if I were a regular poster.

Anyway, this subject is right up my alley. I'm an insurance catastrophe adjuster and this sounds like a text book wind claim. Depending on the age of shingles, condition, and damaged shingles that you are not seeing besides the 25 obvious damaged shingles you may be eligible for a new roof. The cracks you described could be shingles that were damaged by wind when they were lifted up, normally these are horizontal cracks towards the top of the 'tab' of the shingle.

Some insurance companys will replace the entire roof if the roof is to old to be repaired and/or if the shingle is no longer being made. If there was a wind storm within the last year you should be still eligible to receive replacement cost value (RCV) for the roof, which is the actual cash value plus any depreciation of the shingles. Basically the insurance pays for the entire roof minus what your deductible is. If it has been over a year (normally) you still would qualify for an Actual cash value payment (ACV), which is the replacement cost of the roof minus depreciation and deductible.

Depending on your insurance company and the type of policy, hopefully atleast an HO-3 policy, I'd submit a claim and see what happens. Its unlikely that your rates will rise unless you have put in a few claims before.

This turned out to be an excellent suggestion.