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Old 11-26-2011, 02:51 PM   #1
Thomkal
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New Addition to the Family-Please Advise. :)

So growing up and into my adult years the family and/or I has always had dogs as pets. For a while now though, I've realized that a cat is more to my lifestyle and personality. Due to circumstances I won't go into here, never had the opportunity to get one. Well circumstances changed most unexpectedly when my twin brother and his family were down for Thanksgiving. And as a late birthday/early Xmas present much to my surprise, I find myself the owner of a beautiful grey kitten, whom I've named Cloud. Almost the only life she's ever known is the cage at the humane society as she was dropped off there when she was 1 month old and is now 6 1/2 months old. So understandably enough, she's finding all this room and freedom she has now a bit overwhelming.

So looking for advice and ideas on how to raise a new kitten and get her used to her new forever home. I have a lot of work to do as the house isn't exactly kitten proof since I didn't know she was coming.

I've tried to attach a couple pics here, sorry if they are too big don't know how to resize them/put them in the thread here.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:48 PM   #2
Radii
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Yay cats!

I've always gotten younger kittens (usually 2-3 months) though always from the humane society where they are caged up in a room with a bunch of other cats all the time, and have never had any issues with them adjusting. Hopefully one that has been there a little longer will adjust just as well.

Standard things I've always done whenever I've gotten a new cat:

1) Show her the litter box right away and until you're sure she's using it any time she heads for a corner take her to the litter box. Taking a front paw and pawing gently at the litter for a moment or two (and of course saying all kinds of goofy things like "this where you poop!") should get the point across. 1000x easier than with dogs usually.

2) Doors and Windows closed, be careful coming in and going out if you don't know where she is, assuming you want her to be an indoor cat. All of mine have been, I've always understood they live longer and are safer and healthier indoors.

3) The main issues I've had with "kitten proofing" have always involved cabinets where cleaners are stored. My cat is obsessed with any closed door and it took awhile to get the point across that the cabinet under the bathroom sink isn't a good hiding place. Making sure there's no cleaners or supplies that are open that the cat could get into and decide to taste is something I've always done.

4) Let your cat explore on her own terms, its ok if she goes and hides for awhile and watches things. The first few days at least even if she's hiding under the couch go hang out nearby as much as possible, talk to her and if she'll accept any attention offer as much as you can.

5) If you have other animals, keep them away if at all possible until your cat seems comfortable with her surroundings, then you can work on introducing them. I had a 2 year old cat and got a new kitten many years ago, the first couple days I kept the kitten closed off in my bedroom, once he was comfortable with me and seemed to be exploring and not just hiding under the bed I let the cats see each other and hiss a bit, then locked the older cat in the bedroom and let the kitten explore the rest of the apartment. Once comfortable with the rest of the apartment I started letting them interact.

Unless you run into issues I think that's really it, and its probably *way* simpler than everything I typed out. Be patient, don't force her to explore until she's ready, be calm and gentle with her and give her tons and tons of attention, that one sentence would cover everything for most cats

Yay new cats!

Last edited by Radii : 11-26-2011 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:59 PM   #3
DanGarion
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Cats are awesome. Everything Radii say is just about on par with us and our two cats.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:05 PM   #4
terpkristin
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Originally Posted by Radii View Post
Yay cats!

I've always gotten younger kittens (usually 2-3 months) though always from the humane society where they are caged up in a room with a bunch of other cats all the time, and have never had any issues with them adjusting. Hopefully one that has been there a little longer will adjust just as well.

Standard things I've always done whenever I've gotten a new cat:

1) Show her the litter box right away and until you're sure she's using it any time she heads for a corner take her to the litter box. Taking a front paw and pawing gently at the litter for a moment or two (and of course saying all kinds of goofy things like "this where you poop!") should get the point across. 1000x easier than with dogs usually.

2) Doors and Windows closed, be careful coming in and going out if you don't know where she is, assuming you want her to be an indoor cat. All of mine have been, I've always understood they live longer and are safer and healthier indoors.

3) The main issues I've had with "kitten proofing" have always involved cabinets where cleaners are stored. My cat is obsessed with any closed door and it took awhile to get the point across that the cabinet under the bathroom sink isn't a good hiding place. Making sure there's no cleaners or supplies that are open that the cat could get into and decide to taste is something I've always done.

4) Let your cat explore on her own terms, its ok if she goes and hides for awhile and watches things. The first few days at least even if she's hiding under the couch go hang out nearby as much as possible, talk to her and if she'll accept any attention offer as much as you can.

5) If you have other animals, keep them away if at all possible until your cat seems comfortable with her surroundings, then you can work on introducing them. I had a 2 year old cat and got a new kitten many years ago, the first couple days I kept the kitten closed off in my bedroom, once he was comfortable with me and seemed to be exploring and not just hiding under the bed I let the cats see each other and hiss a bit, then locked the older cat in the bedroom and let the kitten explore the rest of the apartment. Once comfortable with the rest of the apartment I started letting them interact.

Unless you run into issues I think that's really it, and its probably *way* simpler than everything I typed out. Be patient, don't force her to explore until she's ready, be calm and gentle with her and give her tons and tons of attention, that one sentence would cover everything for most cats

Yay new cats!

This is all the advice I can offer, but I've only ever had one cat. This is also good if you're moving the cat to a new place. I moved with Oz when he was 5ish, and I followed a lot of the same things.

Funnily, when I showed him the litter box, he actually ended up spending most of the first day in there. Not pooping/peeing, but I think it felt like something he knew...

Cabinets...Oz has only recently learned how to open them. It's been interesting. Also, don't reinforce bad habits. I'm a bit frustrated at how much Oz will jump onto the counter when he's going for the kitchen sink...

/tk
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:26 PM   #5
BYU 14
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No advice as I have mostly had Dogs, but I as a pet person congratulations on the new addition!
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:17 PM   #6
CrimsonFox
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Adorable!!!!!!!

Well there's really not such a thing as catproofing as they'll get into whatever stuff they want when they want.

I guess the catproofing of a place is more for keeping your stuff safe.

Place the litterbox in a place that's a little out of the way and not where people will be a lot. A hooded one is great but only if the cat will use it.

Cats instinctively know where to find the litterbox and will just start using it, but it is still a good idea to show her where it is and just plorr her in.

Biggest thing: Close the toilet lid ALL THE TIME.

Most cats are agile enough not to fall in but you can't be too safe, plus drinking peed water is unhealthy.

If you don't plan on declawing then I suggest a scratching post.
Get a set of cat nail clippers or even human toenail clippers work. It's good to keep the nails trimmed for both of you. When they get too sharp, it's just painful for anyone to hold, especially on the lap. Most cats get a little frightened when something sudden happens when on your lap and dig in. Plus when they get too long, it is hard for the cat to actually walk and run especially on hardwood or tile.

Some people just leave food out all the time and that works for SOME cats but others will just EAT all the time which isn't good as they'll get too fat.
So regimented supper time can be good.

The nice thing about cats is that you can go away for a weekend and just leave a lot of water dishes and bowls of food out and they'll be fine,whereas dogs tend to freak out more.

Granted I would NOT leave a kitten alone for that long. Wait til she's al little older before you do that.

In general though, just pay attention to it and take care of it and she will do the same for you.
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:20 PM   #7
CrimsonFox
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Cats love the backs of couches. So to prevent them putting holes and tears in your coach, lay blankets and throws on the backs of them.

Sides of couches are trickier. Unless you just cover the entire couch. I usually just remove the cat when I see him scratch something and put them on the scratch pad instead.
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:23 PM   #8
DanGarion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonFox View Post

If you don't plan on declawing then I suggest a scratching post.
Get a set of cat nail clippers or even human toenail clippers work. It's good to keep the nails trimmed for both of you. When they get too sharp, it's just painful for anyone to hold, especially on the lap. Most cats get a little frightened when something sudden happens when on your lap and dig in. Plus when they get too long, it is hard for the cat to actually walk and run especially on hardwood or tile.


Do not, I repeat DO NOT declaw a cat. It's inhumane. Just think how you would feel if someone cut off your knuckles.

Get a scratching post or two, and learn how to clip the cats nails. The key is to not cut the nails to short or you may cut the blood vessel in their nails and you will have a hard time stopping it from bleeding, I suggest getting a thing of QuikStop if you are planning on cutting nails just in case you cut them too short. The biggest thing to do with the cat when you clip them is keep reassuring her that she is ok and it isn't a big deal.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:13 PM   #9
Marc Vaughan
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My wife and I have fostered a lot of cats/kittens in our time (probably circa 100+) ...

Rule of thumb for a new cat coming into a home for us, keep them in a single room initially so they don't feel totally cooped up but can get used to things (most importantly where the litter tray is ) ... this is especially important if you have other animal smells around the place which might freak them out (or if you do lots of smelly cooking ).

With regards to claws, I've never declawed and find that giving them a scratching pad* combined with a water spray if they start to scratch on furniture works pretty well as a dissuading influence - cats are smart they'll figure it out.

One thing when they're settling in don't set them up for a fall - that is they will do things wrong, so try and minimise the chances for them to mess up - with cats this generally means don't leave food on the side ... they will try and eat it (and this includes items you might not expect ... such as bread).

*The cat condo things are well cool if you end up going cat mad consider getting one - they're like a cat playground ....

Last edited by Marc Vaughan : 11-26-2011 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:20 PM   #10
Marc Vaughan
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2) Doors and Windows closed, be careful coming in and going out if you don't know where she is, assuming you want her to be an indoor cat. All of mine have been, I've always understood they live longer and are safer and healthier indoors.

Its amazed me how many Americans see cats as 'indoor' pets, mine are indoor/outdoor - its just how they are in England I don't think I know anyone with indoor only cats, it'd be considered a bit weird tbh.

I don't think there's much in it for life expectancy unless you live in extreme conditions in your area, I've had in/out cats live to be 18/19 years old before ...

That being said whatever you do is fine so long as it works for you and you look after the cat well - if you're both happy then its cool with me
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:29 PM   #11
jeff061
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I grew up with cats, they had relativley short lifespans if they were out all night. We started not letting them out as it was getting dark and that seemed to do the trick. Once they get in the pattern they started coming in on their own in the late afternoon, though we had to make sure they didn't sneak out again.

My experience is cats love it outside and it's really the only way they'll get exercise, couldn't imagine forcing them inside. That said I do understand wanting to protect them.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:35 PM   #12
DaddyTorgo
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They make little plastic claw-covers you can buy at pet stores. I don't have a cat, but I've seen them there.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:27 AM   #13
Thomkal
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Thanks guys for all the advice, responding to it one post here.

Cloud was litter trained at the Humane Society, so knew what it was when she saw it. Uses it rather uh, enthusiastically, moving the litter all around digging to the bottom and spraying it outside the box. I have it under my computer desk right now, so stepping on kitty litter is not that fun really. I'll be glad when she gets adjusted to the house so we can move the box to the laundry room where she can fling away.

She is fairly comfortable with my bedroom now and is always happy to see me come into the room. Took her in the living room and she immediately darted behind recliners and stayed there for three hours before I brought her back to the bedroom. Very timid which is understandable, she's quickly growing out of that in the bedroom at least.

Yeah CF keeping the toilet lid closed is going to be a challenge for me after leaving it open all my life. So far the training is going well. As for declawing her, she's definitely getting her nails trimmed when we go to the vet next week as the poor thing is snagging on everything. I'll talk to the vet about declawing but likely won't do it now that I've read more about it. She definitely needs a scratching post as she just loves to stretch up and claw the back of my felt-covered computer chair.

The concern is that she isn't really eating right now. Drinks from the water bowl, but sniffs and paws the food (and tries to tip the whole tray over), but haven't seen her eat any yet. Same with treats, hold it out to her, and sniffs then ignores it. I threw a couple away from her, she went and pounced on it, paws it, plays with it, but doesn't eat them. The food (dry) I'm using is a free bag I got from a pet store for adopting a cat-so I don't know if she would do better if I got a bag of what they used in the Humane Society. I know the wisdom is that she will eventually eat due to hunger winning out, but it would just make me feel better to see her eat.

I definitely want to get her to the point she can leave my room at night, because she is driving me absolutely crazy as she loves to hide under the computer chair and then run/pounce on whatever catches her eye and run/jump on and off my bed. Which isn't doing wonders for me getting enough sleep. Need to get a spray bottle too as she just was not understanding why I was stopping her from reaching behind the stereo to try to snag the multitude of wires there in the middle of the night-finally was able to move it enough and get a barricade there so she cant get at them.

Cords/power strip/electrical outlets worry me as my computer stuff is all out pretty much where she can get at them-don't want her to get hurt on them. So the learning experience continues for both of us.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:36 AM   #14
Bad-example
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Cats are great! Just throwing out a few general tips...

All of my cats have been indoor/outdoor. Installing a pet door was a huge quality of life improvement for my cats. Of course, Smokey the mighty huntress has brought a live mouse/bird/lizard inside on roughly a dozen occasions but the pet door has been a positive overall. I would wait a few months on this...let her get used to her new home before loosing her upon the neighborhood.

Keep dry food and fresh water available 24/7. You have to give them some canned food as well to keep them healthy. Get in the habit of putting down some wet food twice a day at about the same time. Also, while dogs need consistency in their diet, cats need have a more sophisticated palette and need variety. Keep trying different brands and flavors!

Always remember to look at your cat's ass and also her sleeping spots. Not just for fun...all it takes is one ingested flea to get worms. Even an indoor cat treated with Advantage or Frontline can always eat any flea that might've hitched a ride on your clothes.

Play with your cat a LOT. At this age she needs to sharpen her running/hunting/jumping skills. Best cat toy I've owned to date was just a simple feather on a plastic stick.

Brush that pussy. Less shedding and fewer hairballs. Start with short brushing sessions, always leaving her wanting more. She'll start asking for it after a while.

For the litter box I recommend Arm and Hammer brand litter with a covered cat box. Scoop that thing once or twice a day and you will rarely need to change the whole box. Keep a box of ziplock sandwich bags nearby for easy disposal.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:05 AM   #15
terpkristin
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Is there a way to get cats to USE the scratching post? I've had Oz since he was about 6 weeks old (he's 8 years and change now). I've always had scratching posts (multiple) for him. I've also stopped him (when I'm home) from scratching furniture. Yet he doesn't use the scratching posts at ALL. I tried making them more interesting, putting catnip on them, or treats.

Nothing doing. I think it's probably too late to break Oz of his bad habits (jumping onto the kitchen counters and into the kitchen sink, scratching anything but the post), but assuming I get another cat after Oz (actually, next time I'm doing it in pairs), I want to do it right.

Also, did I do something wrong, or are some cats just mean? Oz likes me but hates guests (guys more than girls). And sometimes he'll go psycho even when I'm petting him and attack my hand. Usually it feels like play (not biting hard, claws in), but it's still WEIRD.

/tk
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:28 AM   #16
Radii
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You have to give them some canned food as well to keep them healthy.

Details? Never heard that before, never done that, and every vet seems pleased when I say I give my cat Cat Chow indoor formula and have never suggested anything in addition to it.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:49 AM   #17
terpkristin
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Details? Never heard that before, never done that, and every vet seems pleased when I say I give my cat Cat Chow indoor formula and have never suggested anything in addition to it.

Me either. Nor have I ever heard from my vet the "mix it up" thing. Though admittedly with dry food, I'm very often changing types, because I can never remember which type I bought (I seem to switch between Purina One "Sensitive Systems", "Hairball Control", and "Indoor Advantage.")

/tk
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:42 AM   #18
Bad-example
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Details? Never heard that before, never done that, and every vet seems pleased when I say I give my cat Cat Chow indoor formula and have never suggested anything in addition to it.

I was told years ago that a varied diet including canned food was essential for prevention of urinary tract crystals and stones. It's probable that dry cat food has improved in quality since then. I know there are a hell of a lot more options nowadays.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:03 AM   #19
Bad-example
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Is there a way to get cats to USE the scratching post? I've had Oz since he was about 6 weeks old (he's 8 years and change now). I've always had scratching posts (multiple) for him. I've also stopped him (when I'm home) from scratching furniture. Yet he doesn't use the scratching posts at ALL. I tried making them more interesting, putting catnip on them, or treats.

Nothing doing. I think it's probably too late to break Oz of his bad habits (jumping onto the kitchen counters and into the kitchen sink, scratching anything but the post), but assuming I get another cat after Oz (actually, next time I'm doing it in pairs), I want to do it right.

Also, did I do something wrong, or are some cats just mean? Oz likes me but hates guests (guys more than girls). And sometimes he'll go psycho even when I'm petting him and attack my hand. Usually it feels like play (not biting hard, claws in), but it's still WEIRD.

/tk


Scratching posts are tough. It needs to be solid enough that it doesn't move when used and they have to like the surface. And placement is key. My cats like to scratch at the first good spot they encounter upon entering a room. An old ammo crate covered with carpet scraps has been our best scratching place to date.

Every cat is wired differently. Some just don't like guests. I had a cat that would avoid anyone I had over. I took to leaving the room and having my guest put down a plate of her favorite food. Limited success.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:11 AM   #20
Thomkal
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Originally Posted by Bad-example View Post
Cats are great! Just throwing out a few general tips...

All of my cats have been indoor/outdoor. Installing a pet door was a huge quality of life improvement for my cats. Of course, Smokey the mighty huntress has brought a live mouse/bird/lizard inside on roughly a dozen occasions but the pet door has been a positive overall. I would wait a few months on this...let her get used to her new home before loosing her upon the neighborhood.

Keep dry food and fresh water available 24/7. You have to give them some canned food as well to keep them healthy. Get in the habit of putting down some wet food twice a day at about the same time. Also, while dogs need consistency in their diet, cats need have a more sophisticated palette and need variety. Keep trying different brands and flavors!

Always remember to look at your cat's ass and also her sleeping spots. Not just for fun...all it takes is one ingested flea to get worms. Even an indoor cat treated with Advantage or Frontline can always eat any flea that might've hitched a ride on your clothes.

Play with your cat a LOT. At this age she needs to sharpen her running/hunting/jumping skills. Best cat toy I've owned to date was just a simple feather on a plastic stick.

Brush that pussy. Less shedding and fewer hairballs. Start with short brushing sessions, always leaving her wanting more. She'll start asking for it after a while.

For the litter box I recommend Arm and Hammer brand litter with a covered cat box. Scoop that thing once or twice a day and you will rarely need to change the whole box. Keep a box of ziplock sandwich bags nearby for easy disposal.

The development I live in does not allow outdoor cats so she will be staying indoors. If my yard was fenced in and "cat-proofed" I might have let her out, but its wide open with a lake on the back of it and a drainage ditch along the side and front. It's the south so of course snakes and other animals are a problem plus we sometimes are part of an osprey's/hawk's territory. Besides the living room right now is too imtimidating for her (she's currently wedged herself in a open space on a bookshelf behind our recliners), I can't imagine she'll ever be ready to take on the outdoors.

The information package the Humane Society gave me mentions kittens should get some canned food mixed in with the dry stuff twice a day to prevent dehydration and keep up with teeth and gum health. And to gradually wean her off it. They gave me a sample size of wet cat food (Filet Mignon flavor even!), so I may try that later and see if she shows any more interest in eating.

Don't have any toys yet, but she was having great fun with a large dowel I have that I use with the ceiling fan in my bedroom. I tapped it in front of her while she "hid and stalked" it underneath the computer chair then pounced on it. But will be getting toys/brush/scratching post this week.

Oh and I do have some kind of litter from Arm and Hammer-think that's what they use at the Humane Society. Have an open box, she seems to like getting in there and using it so probably won't get a covered one unless that changes. That's a great idea with the ziplock bags for disposal purposes.

Last edited by Thomkal : 11-27-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #21
terpkristin
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Don't spend money on toys except a fishing rod type thing. I spent $80 for Oz toys when I got him. His favorite toys? Balled-up aluminum foil (he plays fetch), empty boxes, paper towel rolls, the rings from gallon jugs of milk, the fishing rod thing, a ball that you put treats in and as it rolls, they fall out, and a laser pointer. I have a thingie that projects a laser point for 15 minutes. Also I make catnip pouches for him.

/tk
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:18 AM   #22
Thomkal
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So does anyone have pet insurance? Got a free 30-day policy from the Humane Society-is it worth it to extend it to a regular policy? Not a whole lot of extra money here so it sounds good at least.

Also is it alright to give cats human food at all? Saw in the info packet not to give them milk which was something I didn't know.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:21 AM   #23
terpkristin
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No idea about milk. Over heard that cats can grow intolerant to it after they grow up but Oz has always liked it, in small amounts. He gets to lick my yogurt cups/dishes when I finish them. But it's really small amounts.

He tries to lick my other dishes. He seems to like tomatoes (especially salsa) but I try to not give him food other thank remnants of milk/yogurt.

/tk
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:15 PM   #24
DaddyTorgo
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You should totally get one of those things that teach your cat how to use a human toilet, instead of spending a fortune on litter boxes (and dealing with their stink).
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:33 PM   #25
Thomkal
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Originally Posted by DaddyTorgo View Post
You should totally get one of those things that teach your cat how to use a human toilet, instead of spending a fortune on litter boxes (and dealing with their stink).

I saw one of those...um sharing my toilet with my cat...not going to happen.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:42 PM   #26
Thomkal
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Food update-finally decided to see if she would eat wet food. One sniff was all she needed-even came out from hiding behind the recliners in the living room to cautiously chow down. A relief to see her eat at last-will go get the dry food the Humane Society uses to see if will go for that.

My sister in law and her mother came over to see the cat and brought some toys, which she is absolutely loving-a couple balls with feathers attached-she finally has something to pounce on now. Running all over the room now-it looks quite dead. Also got a long tail with a stick attached which she also likes. Also brought some catnip to try-she hasn't responded to the catnip in her bed yet, so she might be too young still for.

And as I type this she is eating the dry food she hasn't touched since she's been here.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:08 AM   #27
CrimsonFox
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You will drain your bank account fast on food you don't need if you buy food from a vet. Some cats are picky.

There is IAMS which is a good brand. Still a bit pricey. Eukenuba too but ditto. The best compromise between affordable and healthy I found was Purina ONE.

Try different flavors in small cheap boxes until you find one she likes, then buy the big bag and KEEP IT CLOSED so it doesn't go stale.

As for wet food I liked giving my cat wet food as a treat and every now and then as they love it. It is not necessary though if you get a good healthy dry food. Granted once they eat wet food they want it all the time and will come running at the sound of all can openers

I agree that cat toys are for suckers. The best bought toy I found were those little cheap mice.

But heavy black string REALLY has 1000 uses as a toy. Just pendulum it through the air and watch her jump for it. Then take off running through the house and watch her follow the tail.
HOld it above her headf so she jumps for it.


My cat would always fetch those crinkly pwarpped candies when I threw them across the room. It was hilarious how much he acted like a dog. Rub her belly too as then she'll lay down expecting it somefully as it's pretty cute.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:21 AM   #28
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You will drain your bank account fast on food you don't need if you buy food from a vet. Some cats are picky.

There is IAMS which is a good brand. Still a bit pricey. Eukenuba too but ditto. The best compromise between affordable and healthy I found was Purina ONE.

Try different flavors in small cheap boxes until you find one she likes, then buy the big bag and KEEP IT CLOSED so it doesn't go stale.

As for wet food I liked giving my cat wet food as a treat and every now and then as they love it. It is not necessary though if you get a good healthy dry food. Granted once they eat wet food they want it all the time and will come running at the sound of all can openers

I agree that cat toys are for suckers. The best bought toy I found were those little cheap mice.

But heavy black string REALLY has 1000 uses as a toy. Just pendulum it through the air and watch her jump for it. Then take off running through the house and watch her follow the tail.
HOld it above her headf so she jumps for it.


My cat would always fetch those crinkly pwarpped candies when I threw them across the room. It was hilarious how much he acted like a dog. Rub her belly too as then she'll lay down expecting it somefully as it's pretty cute.

We had this same discussion in the Dog thread and I'm surprised no one else has disagreed with you yet about these food choices. All three brands you just mentioned are the cat food equivalent to Fast Food, if you are find with feed your cat fast food everyday they are great choices, but they aren't going to be in the best of health. Will they live long lives? Probably, but their coat and their body won't be as healthy as it could be. I suggest to check out brands that cost a little more, ones that don't have the main ingredient of Corn Meal. Merrick makes great quality food, so does Blue Buffalo, I highly suggest you find something with better key ingredients than Iams, any form of Purina, or Eukanuba. In fact if you are going to pay the premium price of an Eukanuba you might as well just buy the cheap food, because all you are paying for with that brand is the "Name".

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Old 11-28-2011, 12:54 PM   #29
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I got my cat back in August and she adjusted pretty quick. Loves the house, is quite smart and enjoys running around.

The best thing, the ex gave me her cat just about 2 months ago so now I have 2 loving cats that chase each other and play around my small apartment...but I love it. When I go to bed at night, Cisco curls up at the foot of my bed and Bella curls up on the bed by my back. They protect me.

I am greeted everyday when I come home by both of them and I have to pet them both and then they go about their night.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:50 PM   #30
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I'd go for a rotation of dry food and wet food, especially for an indoor cat. As has been mentioned, the low moisture in dry food and low thirst drive cats normally have can be bad for kidney and urinary tract problems, they need to get a lot of their moisture from food. Plus dry food has way more carbs than a cat would eat in the wild. We've got five cats and they all vary on what they'll eat, but a mix keeps them all healthy and happy. I think most research now is suggesting wet food as better than dry food for a cat's health.

Never had much luck with scratching posts, my cats ignore them and go for the couch instead. We've got some corrugated cardboard type scratching boards (from Wholefoods) that lie around the living room, and the cats like them to the point of sleeping on them. They can be messy though, little bits of cardboard all over the room. And a water spray bottle is great for letting them know they're doing wrong, I've got a young male who is prone to stupidity, but the sound of "Mr Squishy" being readied calms him down in no time.

Whatever you do, don't declaw. That's just cruelty.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:18 PM   #31
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Details? Never heard that before, never done that, and every vet seems pleased when I say I give my cat Cat Chow indoor formula and have never suggested anything in addition to it.

We get a weary look every time we talk to a vet about feeding & mention dry.

It does, I have to admit, appear to be a really bad choice health-wise because virtually all are primarily made of things that are unhealthy for cats one way or another. Whether it's too many carbs or too low in moisture or some other flaw, it's really not optimal for them.

That said, dry is the staple for most domesticated cats & some even prefer it. Basic canned is also more expensive to feed than basic dry, so there's that factor for some folks as well (especially multi-cat households).
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:31 PM   #32
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I'm a cat owner, and have no problem with the declawing thing. I'm reading a few .. "omg it's inhumane" comments - and really, it's not. You do it when they're kittens, they are given pain medication and it isn't painful, and (assuming they're going to be indoor cats) it doesn't affect their lives at all. There really isn't a negative to having it done, and there are many positives (scratching, climbing, etc.). Your cat will have the same lifespan & lifestyle it would with or without the claws.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:45 PM   #33
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There's already been a ton of good advice here, I'll try to avoid repeating it.
A couple of things that I might throw out for consideration though ...

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Uses it rather uh, enthusiastically, moving the litter all around digging to the bottom and spraying it outside the box. ... I'll be glad when she gets adjusted to the house so we can move the box to the laundry room where she can fling away.

Try to avoid overfilling the litter box, something a lot of us do. That helps reduce the size of the debris field. Also, make sure you're very clear with the kitten about the whereabouts of the litter box once you move it.

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Very timid which is understandable, she's quickly growing out of that in the bedroom at least.

Totally normal with cats. Several days hiding under the furniture is not uncommon, especially with older cats being integrated into a new home. Younger cats tend to do this less in my experience but it's not unheard of either. As a vet once told me "no cat has ever starved to death under the couch", eventually they'll venture out (although with some you do start to wonder).

Quote:
The concern is that she isn't really eating right now. Drinks from the water bowl, but sniffs and paws the food (and tries to tip the whole tray over), but haven't seen her eat any yet. Same with treats, hold it out to her, and sniffs then ignores it.

Cats are notoriously picky eaters, or at least some of them are. I've had some that would eat virtually any dry brand but no moist, others that would eat . And most notably, one that was so particular about her dry that not only was she brand specific, not only was she flavor-from-that-brand specific, but she was so picky that when they changed the formulation of her one & only brand, she would patiently use her paw to pick out the offending pieces of the new stuff & try to eat only the familiar shapes.

Now I have no idea whether the individual pieces actually taste different or if it's strictly a shape/color change for the same food but she sure seemed to believe it mattered. There would be a little pile of the one new color/shape laying on the floor next to the bowl, the other two would be eaten.

My tip for canned is, as more than one vet has told us, "the stinkier the better". If you really run into concerns with her eating enough, try some of the cheaper stuff, they often smell worse (9 Lives comes to mind, Friskies can be pretty rank in some flavors as well). There's also a sardine/mackeral blend in Whiskas pouches (we call them "kitty sushi") that is one that even our vets have started using as a desperation ploy to get a cat to eat (it's similar to a prescription one that apparently is no longer being made).

One of the tougher things to do with most cats is to change their diet without their consent, so if you plan to switch from what you started with, anticipate that you may have to do that gradually. As in 80/20 mix for 2-3 days, then 60/40 for 2-3 days, etc. Probably easier with a kitten that doesn't have habits that are so established but it's something that's considered a known issue with most cats.

Above all else, I issue the rather specific caution about not allowing cats to ever play with thread (as opposed to string). There's a pretty rough set of posts on the forum somewhere that details our experience with that. Never knew that was even an issue until it cost us several thousand dollars in emergency surgery, a couple of very touch-and-go weeks with the cat, and cost the cat about half her small intestine. Just watch what they're playing with, m'kay.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:17 PM   #34
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We get a weary look every time we talk to a vet about feeding & mention dry.

It does, I have to admit, appear to be a really bad choice health-wise because virtually all are primarily made of things that are unhealthy for cats one way or another. Whether it's too many carbs or too low in moisture or some other flaw, it's really not optimal for them.

That said, dry is the staple for most domesticated cats & some even prefer it. Basic canned is also more expensive to feed than basic dry, so there's that factor for some folks as well (especially multi-cat households).

Interesting... my cat is 11 y/o now, I wonder if its worth changing anything (he's still perfectly healthy tho a little chubby) or just letting it be with what he seems to be quite content with at this point.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:22 PM   #35
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We had this same discussion in the Dog thread and I'm surprised no one else has disagreed with you yet about these food choices. All three brands you just mentioned are the cat food equivalent to Fast Food, if you are find with feed your cat fast food everyday they are great choices, but they aren't going to be in the best of health. Will they live long lives? Probably, but their coat and their body won't be as healthy as it could be. I suggest to check out brands that cost a little more, ones that don't have the main ingredient of Corn Meal. Merrick makes great quality food, so does Blue Buffalo, I highly suggest you find something with better key ingredients than Iams, any form of Purina, or Eukanuba. In fact if you are going to pay the premium price of an Eukanuba you might as well just buy the cheap food, because all you are paying for with that brand is the "Name".

Cat Food Quick List


*shrug* now if you'd have said Cat Chow or Friskies or Meow Mix or something like that I'd agree with you on the fast food comment. I disagree on the others tho. My cat seemed to be more active and soft after I switched to One. BUt people like what they like and believe what they believe. If you're REALLY worried about feeding your cat unhealthy stuff then go to Trader Joe's and buy whatever's there. I bet it's organic and healthy and all that stuff. My point is that feeding them Vet's r/d formula and crap is unnecessary.

There are healthy cat foods out there.

And if you don't think they are, then okay find something else. Now will your cat eat it? That's the other challenge. If they don't eat one, then try another.

I am warming to the idea of feeding it more wet than dry, even though I've never felt that way before.

Have never heard people say that dry food is evil before and I don't believe that at all.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:32 PM   #36
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Okay Dan just now reading that website with the list of cat foods. Nice find. I don't even know what to make of "Animal Digest" in food.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:46 AM   #37
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Interesting... my cat is 11 y/o now, I wonder if its worth changing anything (he's still perfectly healthy tho a little chubby) or just letting it be with what he seems to be quite content with at this point.

My answer -- although I've never played a vet on TV -- would be that you should monitor his general health for signs of problems that can be exacerbated by food but otherwise, probably makes sense to maintain course.

I will say that most vets would probably beat you up hard about the "a little chubby" thing, it seems to me that they want them looking like a heroin addicted supermodel or else they're considered overweight. But IMO the reality is that, if he's truly healthy otherwise, the stress of trying to make major changes + the nature of getting cats to lose weight might not be worthwhile at his age.

Don't know if you've ever had the experience of trying to get weight off a cat but let me tell you, that's damned near a full time job all by itself. Apparently their metabolism is so different from ours (and from dogs) that reasonable progress in weight loss for a healthy cat is measured in ounces per month (or so I've been told repeatedly during the past decade or so).
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:29 AM   #38
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*shrug* now if you'd have said Cat Chow or Friskies or Meow Mix or something like that I'd agree with you on the fast food comment. I disagree on the others tho. My cat seemed to be more active and soft after I switched to One. BUt people like what they like and believe what they believe. If you're REALLY worried about feeding your cat unhealthy stuff then go to Trader Joe's and buy whatever's there. I bet it's organic and healthy and all that stuff. My point is that feeding them Vet's r/d formula and crap is unnecessary.

There are healthy cat foods out there.

And if you don't think they are, then okay find something else. Now will your cat eat it? That's the other challenge. If they don't eat one, then try another.

I am warming to the idea of feeding it more wet than dry, even though I've never felt that way before.

Have never heard people say that dry food is evil before and I don't believe that at all.

I agree, feeding them what works is the ultimate goal. But if you look at the ingredients of Iams or Euk they are the same the cheap brands. My wife has worked in the animal care industry for over 10 years (we own a grooming shop) and she has seen a number of significant changes in an animals health with the introduction of more real foods being fed animals (we don't sell any products so it's not like we make money on the recommendations). That isn't to say that one has to change, but if you can afford to pay a little extra for a brand that brings real nutrition to your pet, it is worth it. I never would have believed it before meeting my wife but I've seen and heard of so many changes with just taking corn out of the diet and finding food that matches more along the lines of what the animals would eat in the wild.

As for the prescription/medication brands from vets, sometimes you have to bite the bullet and have no choice, because your cat has a specific need or issue that has to be treated, forever. I speak from experience. We have two male cats and unfortunately we have to feed them c/d because of crystal issues, we nearly lost one of our cats. I hate having to give them c/d because it's number one ingredient is corn, but unfortunately they need the medicated formula. We tried one last option of raw food, but one of our cats wasn't able to adjust to it no matter how little we mixed with their medicated food, plus he's very much a grazer and doesn't eat on our clock.

As for the wet vs. dry with cats especially it all depends on how much water your cat drinks, wet food is great to make sure they get enough hydration, fortunately both of our cats drink a lot of water.

The biggest recommendation I can give any pet owner is pay attention to your pet, be aware of their patterns, and if you see a change it might be best to take him or her to the vet.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:15 PM   #39
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Also, KEEP THE WATER DISH a) FILLED AT ALL TIMES and b) CLEAN!
(clean out the scunge)

If you notice the cat trying to drink out of the sink or bathtub or toilet, then you've either forgotten to fill the dish or it's too dirty.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:30 PM   #40
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Also, KEEP THE WATER DISH a) FILLED AT ALL TIMES and b) CLEAN!
(clean out the scunge)

If you notice the cat trying to drink out of the sink or bathtub or toilet, then you've either forgotten to fill the dish or it's too dirty.

Or they just really love water.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:31 PM   #41
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Or they just really love water.

snarf snarf!
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:15 PM   #42
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okay Cloud sailed through her vet check today, with the exception of what she liked to call "chin acne" either brought on by diet and/or continuously rubbing against the plastic water cup at the humane society. Not serious, told us to rub a solution of half-water and half-vinegar on it to try to get it to go away.

Weighed 6 pounds or so which is a little underweight, and found out she's likely reached or is close to what her adult size will be which is surprising to me since you always think of kitten/puppies to be in the growing stages. It's fine with me actually as I was looking for a smaller cat. Temperature, heart, and ears all good. Got her nails trimmed and talked about declawing or not. Asked about a dry food recommendation based on price and healthy qualities-was surprised she said Purina One based on the Cat Food link Dan provided-its what she had in the shelter too. Said we could already move off kitten food to an indoor or active cat adult variety. Talked about a flea treatment and gave me a sample for one who's name I can't remember right now (thoughts here as to which one to go with?) And I get to bring a fecal sample in when she gives me one. Oh joy.

She's not liking me as much right now though-thinking I'm going to put her in the carrier and bring her back when they stuck a therometer up her behind and clipped her nails-leary of me when I reach down to pet her. Though she has been laying in the carrier for the past half hour or so she can't be too bad. She was actually very good today, I expected a squirming fighting kitten around so many new people not to mention the sounds and sights of dogs in the waiting room and while she was being examined. She was definitely scared, but just tried to escape from the vet/vet techs pretty passively.

So if the fecal sample comes back good, shouldn't have to visit the vet anytime soon which is good. Oh and as I mentioned above, Cloud came with pet insurance-any one with experience with them-good to have? better policies?
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:42 PM   #43
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Or they just really love water.

Or, in our most recent discovery, they're diabetic

I'll echo your advice about watching your pet, knowing their patterns, and checking out things that change. It was the sudden major increase in water consumption that tipped us off & that meant we were able to get his blood sugar under control (2x insulin shots a day) before any sign of damage being done.

And the water thing, I'm told that cats have a much smaller margin of error for dehydration than humans, dogs, or just about anything of the sort. That's a combination of less body weight & something about how their bodies react to the problem (the fine points escape me at the moment, something chemical they do to compensate that us & dogs don't do), there's risk of severe permanent damage with a severely dehydrated cat in as little as a couple of days ... or at least that's what I've been told by two different vets in two different cases.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:02 AM   #44
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And the water thing, I'm told that cats have a much smaller margin of error for dehydration than humans, dogs, or just about anything of the sort. That's a combination of less body weight & something about how their bodies react to the problem (the fine points escape me at the moment, something chemical they do to compensate that us & dogs don't do), there's risk of severe permanent damage with a severely dehydrated cat in as little as a couple of days ... or at least that's what I've been told by two different vets in two different cases.

Sounds about right, it's the same as with male cats when they get crystals, if they can't pass their urine that can die in less than a day and a half.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:47 PM   #45
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a big milestone for my little Cloud today. Has been pretty much hiding for long periods in the other room we are trying to get her used to, but today when I came back into the room and enticed her to come out, she was meowing at me to pick her up-petted her for a while, then gave her to someone else to watch for a bit again. Jumped down from the chair and followed me all the way to the big sliding doors leading out of the kitchen that have scared her so much before when they open and close...and started wandering into the three rooms open to her-sniffed every corner without hiding then followed me into the bedroom. Such a brave kitty!
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:42 PM   #46
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Or they just really love running water.

Fixed that for you. I can literally put Oz's dish down freshly filled with tap water and in a clean bowl and he'll still jump into the sink instead of drinking from his bowl

/tk
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:47 PM   #47
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So, random cat question. I don't know if I've said, before Oz, I had dogs. Cats are kind of new to me.

Is it "normal" for cats to push their water dish around as they drink? Oz's dish is normally in this position, against the wall:


But I routinely find it pushed around the kitchen floor, or sometimes out into the dining room area (a good 10 feet "toward" the POV for where this picture was taken from):


If this is "normal," any idea why they do it? He used to move around his fountain (like this) all over, too. Made an absolute mess. Actually, he makes a mess, regardless, which is why his water is in a larger box...

Also, I got this for Oz, which he seems to enjoy. One of the only cat toys I've paid for that he's played with. Otherwise, his toys are catnip pillows, foil balls, and open boxes (Christmas is a great time of year).

/tk
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:32 PM   #48
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a big milestone for my little Cloud today. Has been pretty much hiding for long periods in the other room we are trying to get her used to, but today when I came back into the room and enticed her to come out, she was meowing at me to pick her up-petted her for a while, then gave her to someone else to watch for a bit again. Jumped down from the chair and followed me all the way to the big sliding doors leading out of the kitchen that have scared her so much before when they open and close...and started wandering into the three rooms open to her-sniffed every corner without hiding then followed me into the bedroom. Such a brave kitty!


yup that's normal. Takes a few days to get brave.

When I brought mine home (at over 2 years old no less), he hid behind the washing machine for 3 days until I was actually there and monitoring him. Then he would start to explore more.

It's like they HAVE to explore and conquer each new territory as THEIRS!
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:33 PM   #49
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So, random cat question. I don't know if I've said, before Oz, I had dogs. Cats are kind of new to me.

Is it "normal" for cats to push their water dish around as they drink? Oz's dish is normally in this position, against the wall:


But I routinely find it pushed around the kitchen floor, or sometimes out into the dining room area (a good 10 feet "toward" the POV for where this picture was taken from):


If this is "normal," any idea why they do it? He used to move around his fountain (like this) all over, too. Made an absolute mess. Actually, he makes a mess, regardless, which is why his water is in a larger box...

Also, I got this for Oz, which he seems to enjoy. One of the only cat toys I've paid for that he's played with. Otherwise, his toys are catnip pillows, foil balls, and open boxes (Christmas is a great time of year).

/tk

Yup they constantly move things around hahaha.
They do that. Many I've been with scrap the loose food around with their paws before eating like they were cleaning the area (of the mess THEY made). THe dish-scoot is very common. I am no cat psychiatrist as to why this happens except maybe it doesn't like hitting its head on the wall when it eats.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:17 PM   #50
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Oh yeah, very normal. Not all cats do it, but 2 of our 3 current ones do.

One of them also likes to put on a big production number where she "covers" the food (same motions as in the litter box) after she's finished eating ... or after she deems whatever is in the dish unacceptable. She tends to put the same coup de grace on the bowl whether she liked it or not.
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