International Travel (Ireland/Scotland)

[Vince, Pt. II]

Hey all! The wife and I are planning our Honeymoon, and have settled on Scotland and Ireland as our likely destinations. I, ashamedly enough, have never traveled internationally, and would love some pointers - both for general international travel and for our specific destinations.

Trip specifics:

• Early-to-mid November (7th-ish to 22nd-ish)
• Budget is a slight concern, so cheaper = better, though we don't want to miss out on things because of budget reasons and are capable of splurges if necessary.
• We are both unabashed foodies, so will be extremely interested in interesting dining options. We are also aware that these places aren't exactly known for their cuisine - at least in the right way
• We don't have many must-haves, but I want to try to golf the Old Course if possible. I am aware that this means waking up extraordinarily early and hoping.
• We both have some Irish heritage, though this isn't a hugely motivating factor for our choice of destination other than it's cool that we are Irish and are visiting.

We will be leaving and returning mid-week, which seems to be a huge boon for airline tickets - can the $900-ish quote I saw for both tickets round trip from San Jose to Dublin on Google be a legit price? Seems crazy low to me.

[Edward64]

No experience in Ireland or Scotland but wanted to congratulate you.

Now if you want to visit SE Asia, I can probably contribute to the conversation ...

[cartman]

That price sounds about right. That isn't the peak travel season, and midweek is usually cheaper. Which airline was it? Some of the budget airlines sell cheap tickets, then gouge you on everything related to the flight: checking bags, selecting a seat, food, etc.

[Vince, Pt. II]

United out, Air Canada back. It was made very clear this didn't include bag fees, etc.

[AlexB]

Ireland is amazing, I’ve spent about ten weeks in total travelling round the country over the years.

I would say November is brave for both countries, the weather is mixed at the best of times, so be prepared for anything at that time of year, and may well be the reason why the prices are lower.

You’ll likely be governed by weather, but some highlights in Ireland:

The whole of the west coast - Cork, Kerry, Clare all have stunning peninsulas, coastlines and islands. Pick any: Ring of Kerry is probably the most travelled, Cork’s peninsulars vary massively in terrain and population.

Galway city is a great night out, County Galway and especailly Mayo in the NW corner are my favourite areas, the Connemara is just stunning. County Donegal is beautiful too, and maybe a bit livelier, but Mayo edges it for me.

If you like hiking, climb Croagh Patrick if you have time and weather, stunning views, and you can say you’ve done a Catholic pilgrimage! Errigal in Donegal is similar, not quite as pretty

The Gap of Dunloe is another beautiful walk if the weather is with you, and you can mix with Killarney, which although a bit touristy is good fun.

Clonakilty in Cork has a good mix of interests: birthplace of Michael Collins, so lots of IRA history, a world famous jazz bar and the best black pudding in Ireland (Michael Collins’ granny’s recipe apparently!)

Dublin is cool, Guiness factory, lots of good history, lots of good bars in Temple Bar and in the centre.

Most towns have at least one pub with live music at least one night, trad is usually good, rebel songs in Cork and the south can be ‘fun’ for an Englishman like me!

Cliffs of Moher are a beautiful walk too and stunning sights, as are Slieve League, which are a much tougher and barren walk, but just as cool in its own way

Kinsale on the south coast is a good mix of beautiful town/village, good music and food (if you’re not expecting much from Irish cuisine you are in for a huge surprise! The seafood is superb, and modern Irish cuisine is really good in general)

As a golfer, Ballybunion has a really good course, a very tricky and undulating coastal links.

Other towns/villages I really liked - Roundstone, Westport, Ardara, Sligo

Glendalough is an atmospheric ruined priory town with round towers, beautiful lands, and the Newgrange tomb is unlike anything else I’ve ever seen - older than the Pyramids!

The Skellig islands are worth a visit if it fits into your schedule, but will take the whole day, not sure if you have puffins on the island at that time of year, and the seas could well scupper trips at that time of year. If you can get to one of the isalnds off the west coast try to though, there’s some amazing scenery on the Aran islands, Inisbofin, Achill island

Then you’ve got things like Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel, Waterford and the like which are on most itineraries but are things to tick off IMHO rather than the best of Ireland.

Anyway, that probably gives you more than you can do in the time you have, and doesn’t even cover Scotland (Western Isles, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Fort William, Isle of Skye, Highlands, Loch Lomond (another good golf course), Loch Ness, Perth is good, Stirling, St Andrews, are all remembered fondly, but from at least 10-15 years ago)!

Congratulations, and you’ll have a blast in the right weather. If you get bad weather, there will be plenty of pubs with log fires, beer and whiskey!)

[Vince, Pt. II]

Originally Posted by AlexB

Ireland is amazing, I’ve spent about ten weeks in total travelling round the country over the years.

I would say November is brave for both countries, the weather is mixed at the best of times, so be prepared for anything at that time of year, and may well be the reason why the prices are lower.

You’ll likely be governed by weather, but some highlights in Ireland:

The whole of the west coast - Cork, Kerry, Clare all have stunning peninsulas, coastlines and islands. Pick any: Ring of Kerry is probably the most travelled, Cork’s peninsulars vary massively in terrain and population.

Galway city is a great night out, County Galway and especailly Mayo in the NW corner are my favourite areas, the Connemara is just stunning. County Donegal is beautiful too, and maybe a bit livelier, but Mayo edges it for me.

If you like hiking, climb Croagh Patrick if you have time and weather, stunning views, and you can say you’ve done a Catholic pilgrimage! Errigal in Donegal is similar, not quite as pretty

The Gap of Dunloe is another beautiful walk if the weather is with you, and you can mix with Killarney, which although a bit touristy is good fun.

Clonakilty in Cork has a good mix of interests: birthplace of Michael Collins, so lots of IRA history, a world famous jazz bar and the best black pudding in Ireland (Michael Collins’ granny’s recipe apparently!)

Dublin is cool, Guiness factory, lots of good history, lots of good bars in Temple Bar and in the centre.

Most towns have at least one pub with live music at least one night, trad is usually good, rebel songs in Cork and the south can be ‘fun’ for an Englishman like me!

Cliffs of Moher are a beautiful walk too and stunning sights, as are Slieve League, which are a much tougher and barren walk, but just as cool in its own way

Kinsale on the south coast is a good mix of beautiful town/village, good music and food (if you’re not expecting much from Irish cuisine you are in for a huge surprise! The seafood is superb, and modern Irish cuisine is really good in general)

As a golfer, Ballybunion has a really good course, a very tricky and undulating coastal links.

Other towns/villages I really liked - Roundstone, Westport, Ardara, Sligo

Glendalough is an atmospheric ruined priory town with round towers, beautiful lands, and the Newgrange tomb is unlike anything else I’ve ever seen - older than the Pyramids!

The Skellig islands are worth a visit if it fits into your schedule, but will take the whole day, not sure if you have puffins on the island at that time of year, and the seas could well scupper trips at that time of year. If you can get to one of the isalnds off the west coast try to though, there’s some amazing scenery on the Aran islands, Inisbofin, Achill island

Then you’ve got things like Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel, Waterford and the like which are on most itineraries but are things to tick off IMHO rather than the best of Ireland.

Anyway, that probably gives you more than you can do in the time you have, and doesn’t even cover Scotland (Western Isles, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Fort William, Isle of Skye, Highlands, Loch Lomond (another good golf course), Loch Ness, Perth is good, Stirling, St Andrews, are all remembered fondly, but from at least 10-15 years ago)!

Congratulations, and you’ll have a blast in the right weather. If you get bad weather, there will be plenty of pubs with log fires, beer and whiskey!)

This is awesome stuff, thanks!

[Jon]

First, congratulations!

Second, my wife and I just returned from a four day trip to Ireland. It was, in a word, amazing.

Here are some of the things that we did:

(1) Guinness Factory Tour
(2) St. Patrick's Catherdral
(3) Christ Church Cathedral
(4) Book of Kells with Trinity College Tour
(5) Dublin Castle Tour
(6) Kilmanhaim Gaol (the prison where the British housed and executed some members of the 1916 Easter Uprising)
(7) Irish house party with traditional music and dancing

We also went to the EPIC Museum--it's the Irish immigration museum. It was beautiful, well done, and just an overall great experience. You can also pay extra to meet with a geneologist who will get you started on researching your Irish roots. I, for example, learned that I may be related to some Irish tinkers that emigrated to the US in the mid 1800s.

We used viator for some of tours and booked directly for others. One of the Book of Kells tours gets you in before everyone else is allowed in or after everyone else leaves.

We were only able to visit Dublin, but had plenty to do, and had a great time. We found public transit to be very good.

Again, Congratulations!

[AlexB]

Originally Posted by Vince, Pt. II

This is awesome stuff, thanks!

No worries! Also forgot to add Dingle to the favourite towns/villages - it’s lovely too.

Not having seen the new Star Wars movies, forgot to add another attraction of Skellig St Michael is that it was where Luke Skywalker apparently was based in one of the latest films, beehive stone buildings on a tiny island. I went there a few years ago so didn’t have that link and it was beautiful, if you’ve seen the last Star Wars film there’s that aspect too.

There’s so many places, I could keep coming back and saying, oh yeah, and there was such and such place too - wherever you go it will be amazing.

I left off Northern Ireland largely as I haven’t been there myself, but Belfast, with its Titanic history, arts centres and obvious sectarian history, and Giants Causeway are there, as is Strangford Lough which is also supposed to be beautiful

[tarcone]

WOW airlines flies out of St Louis. They have $99 one way tickets to London.

The dates you are talking about are in this promo time frame.

I dont know how close you are to St Louis, but thought Id throw that out there.

[Super Ugly]

You're going to have a great time!

AlexB has given you some excellent recommendations. It's been a while since I visited Ireland and could be wrong, but public transport is terrible. Rent a car.

Don't neglect Northern Ireland. Belfast is an underrated city (I was there just last week) and will likely be the cheapest place on your tour. Belfast City Airport is also good for connections to Scotland.

Edinburgh is beautiful, and has some outstanding restaurants. I cannot recommend David Bann highly enough. Beware, though - Edinburgh is expensive. November is out of season so you might get decent hotel rates. I like to stay in serviced apartments when I'm there on business and can vouch for the Adagio Aparthotel.

From Edinburgh, you can easily reach Stirling - I'm told that the castle is worth a visit. St Andrews is nice, but I don't think I'd go out of my way to visit. The nearest town, Dundee, is a dump.

Glasgow is a more vibrant city than Edinburgh, friendlier, cheaper, and is better for nightlife (if that's your thing). Make sure you visit an Indian restaurant when you're there. Mr Singh's in the west end is excellent.

Pack warm clothes, and buy an umbrella when you're there!

[heybrad]

I’ll second Belfast as an interesting place to visit. If you love history, in Belfast do a black cab tour.


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[Ryche]

Went to Scotland last November. Great time, totally the offseason. Loved Edinburgh, didn't get to spend enough time there, hoping to go back in May.

Did rain quite a bit, even snowed, especially in the Highlands. And there's not much daylight so plan accordingly. Bring warm clothes.

[tarcone]

My daughter was in Ireland this summer. Their group went tot he Titanic museum and said it was incredible.

[Vince, Pt. II]

So these have all been awesome suggestions, and now my dining room table is a huge mess of index cards with stuff we want to do on them. Over the next few days we're going to start narrowing it down/actually plotting the trip. Now for some more general travel tips:

• This will easily be the longest trip I ever take; how accessible/easy is it to launder clothes abroad? Want to limit our luggage as much as I can.
• Related to the above, slightly - what sort of do's and dont's are there when looking for lodging?
• I know this is hugely subjective, but any advice on balancing quantity of things to do in a given day? We want to see as much as we can, but we also want to enjoy ourselves and not feel rushed.
• As Californians, we do not have much in the way of weather to deal with on a regular basis. And we're heading to Ireland in November. I've already decided to just pick up an umbrella once we get there rather than buying and packing one, but how crazy should we get with regard to jackets, rainboots, etc?
• Research seems to indicate the Euro for Ireland and the Pound for Scotland; will it be hard to change money when needed?
• We want to rent a car; it looks like from online research as long as I'm insured, my US/CA driver's license should be enough. Anything further I need to look into there?

Honestly, most of the stuff my research has turned up worries me that things are looking much easier (Driver's license, flight costs, etc) than I expected, and that is strangely worrying me that I'm missing something.

[AlexB]

Laundry is done in all hotels, every town (but not village) has a laundrette. No problems there

Someone else may be better on the next two points, as I have the luxury of The areas being really accessible for me, so I generally just work my wwa6 around the coast, do what I do, see what I see, and then find a place to stay in the evenings. And i just start the next trip where I ended the last one, so I don’t have any pressures on that.

Having said that, things always take more time than you think, and it does depend on what you are doing, where you are going, but outside of Dublin/Cork, I personally would allow two things/places a day if planning it more thoroughly, but have a back up list with you in case you don’t like something or spend less time there than planned.

You can rely on driving times fairly heavily though: in Ireland, outside of Dublin and Cork there is very light traffic, so you would be very unlucky to find getting between places to be the problem. Scotland has more bigger towns/cities, but again outside of these there won’t be much on the roads.

Umbrellas are cheap, but at that time of year I’d go waterproof & windproof jacket (and trousers if you feel the need) and waterproof walking shoes/boots, plus a fleece for outer wear for when it’s cold but not raining.
Then layers are your friend! That way you can mix and match according to what you find on the day if you have a selection of short sleeved base layers, long sleeves T’s and a sweater or two.
Some sort of lightweight leggings for under main trousers might be good just in case it gets really cold, they don’t take up much space but make a massive difference.
Take some gloves too, or get some when travelling, and a beanie or similar for when it’s cold but not raining
Some people swear by dedicated thermal underwear, but i find them to be redundant tbh if you layer up, and have never owned any (then and again I’m not used to Californian weather, so it’s less of a shock to me!), it’s not really needed for UK/Ireland, more for properly cold countries.
(It’s mostly the damp climate and wind that makes you cold here rather than the temperature, so by layering and protecting against wind/rain, you trap air between the different items that should keep you warm)

No problems changing money at all. I just use the ATMs TBH so don’t know what the score is in Irleand, but if you change money in a larger-sized Post Office in Scotland where they do money exchange services, they don’t charge commission. Don’t change money at the airport exchange desks, the rates will stiff you by a good 10%.

Be careful about waiver excess: it’s often different to the main insurance offered with the hire, and if you do need to claim, you will save the few hundred that is usually the hire company excess.
However if you do decide to include this, don’t get it through the hire company - buy this separately and it will likely save 50%. Definitely don’t buy this from the desk when you pick up the car, or it will be even more expensive!

It’s really easy travelling around Ireland, the only thing to even slightly worry about is the weather, so make sure you have stuff to keep warm and dry and the rest is gravy!

[miked]

I've spent a few summers in Galway, so most of my stuff is West Coast.

Car rentals are not covered by US insurance. My Amex covers it in Ireland, but call first and get a copy of their coverage letter, Enterprise required it. Driving in Ireland is a bit funky off the big roads, especially the one lane roads with the occasional pullout.

I'm not sure about November, but the Aran Islands were awesome, we went twice. We did not bike as we had small kids, but would have if we were alone. Make sure you ask around and try to find the Worm Hole (The Worm Hole - Aran Islands - Galway - Doolin, it was stunning and not the easiest to find.

Go to the cliffs of moher at night time. Though in the summer the sunset was around 10pm, it was stunning. If the weather is good, it's an easy drive from Galway and free after 9pm (though in the fall/winter I guess it gets dark at like 3pm).

I may be alone, but I loved Tipperary County, was a bit off the beaten path but some great castles and sites (Cahir Castle, Cashel, etc).

Dingle will be empty that time of year, but still a fun place. A super long drive though. Everyone says they have Skellig Michael views and they will have pictures of Star Wars everywhere...it's a trap! Anyway, you need to book that shit well in advance.

On the West Coast, Conmemara was stunning. From the park to Kylemore Abbey, it was all worth it. Clifden is a nice coastal town.

My colleague went for a drive along the Giants Causeway and said it was totally worth it. I had whiskey with a nice Irish couple one night who told me that Donegal is the best city in Ireland, tons of history and right on the ocean. We did not venture that far northwest.

If you fish, there are a ton of things to do.

If you are staying in Galway, I can recommend some awesome places. We are not going back this year (taking a year off), but it truly is my favorite place to be.