New car exterior care?

[Galaril]

Just bought a new car and was wondering if there was antything like a wax or paint sealant I should have put on the car exterior to give it more protection from scratches? The car is a new 2008 car and it has been simonized.

[DanGarion]

Simonized?

Is that what they called their overpriced jacked up protectant they wanted to add at the dealer?

If you bought that stuff, there are usually very strict rules you are supposed to follow for that stuff to supposedly work... Like no wax and things like that.

[cartman]

Most new paint jobs are not supposed to be waxed for at least six months, because the paint isn't fully cured until that point. I know this is the case for body shop paint jobs, so I'd assume it would also apply to factory paint jobs.

[rkmsuf]

Scratches are going to happen. Learn to love them.

[QuikSand]

Yer gonna want dat Tru-Coat...

[Raiders Army]

This isn't a bad option: http://www.aerotect.net/aerotect_015.htm

[rkmsuf]

Biggest scam since one hour martinizing.

[Cringer]

Originally Posted by rkmsuf

Scratches are going to happen. Learn to love them.

True.

And if it's a light color, prepare to spend half a day getting road grime/tar off when you wash it.

[cartman]

When it comes time to apply waxes and polishes, I have had nothing but great results from Zaino Brothers. It is a bit pricey, but the stuff is awesome.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

[Galaril]

Thanks everyone. i figured wax wasn't necessary either but I was leaning to getting this professional detailing shop that does only detailing apply there chemically bonded Teflon sealant for newer cars to add another layer of protection to the car. But, I will have to check with the simoninign crap if it will screw with that. It isn't 2008 car but a new 2007 so the paint from factory is probably 6 months old .

[DanGarion]

Originally Posted by Galaril

Thanks everyone. i figured wax wasn't necessary either but I was leaning to getting this professional detailing shop that does only detailing apply there chemically bonded Teflon sealant for newer cars to add another layer of protection to the car. But, I will have to check with the simoninign crap if it will screw with that. It isn't 2008 car but a new 2007 so the paint from factory is probably 6 months old .

Here is the thing that dealers won't tell you that much. The cars already come from the manufacturer with clear-coat on them. That protects the paint already...

[Galaril]

Originally Posted by dangarion

Here is the thing that dealers won't tell you that much. The cars already come from the manufacturer with clear-coat on them. That protects the paint already...

How long would that clear coat protect the car would you say?

[DanGarion]

Originally Posted by Galaril

How long would that clear coat protect the car would you say?

Gez, hell if I know. But I did run across this website that has some info about clearcoats and etc.

http://www.mobileworks.com/clear-coa...-finishes.html

[Galaril]

Originally Posted by dangarion

Gez, hell if I know. But I did run across this website that has some info about clearcoats and etc.

http://www.mobileworks.com/clear-coa...-finishes.html

Sorry I thought you knew

[CU Tiger]

Originally Posted by cartman

Most new paint jobs are not supposed to be waxed for at least six months, because the paint isn't fully cured until that point. I know this is the case for body shop paint jobs, so I'd assume it would also apply to factory paint jobs.

Total Bunk.
this was a lie started by sub par auto body shops that wanted to wait until warranties were up before people starteed rubbing on the paint. Once a car is painted it is baked and the paint is as hard as it will ever be that day.

Also by the time you get a car it has been painted 6 months. The panels are painted now in many cases before assembly. You tour BMWs plant and they have stacks of red,black,blue hoods fenders etc.

Originally Posted by dangarion

Here is the thing that dealers won't tell you that much. The cars already come from the manufacturer with clear-coat on them. That protects the paint already...

All a clear coat is, is a layer off clear paint. It is not a protectant per se.
It is designed to be a layer of scratch protectant. You want a wax layer to keep water (andd its containeed contaminants and chemicals) from sitting on your paint. Many road chemicals and even windshield washer fluid can actually etch paint if left sitting and while it wont technically hurt anything it kils the sheen or glossy appearnace.

if you live in the north where your car will see road salt, a wax followed by regualr washings are your friend. Down Soth here, it only matteers if you wwant your car to be pretty.

[cartman]

Originally Posted by CU Tiger

Total Bunk.
this was a lie started by sub par auto body shops that wanted to wait until warranties were up before people starteed rubbing on the paint. Once a car is painted it is baked and the paint is as hard as it will ever be that day.

Also by the time you get a car it has been painted 6 months. The panels are painted now in many cases before assembly. You tour BMWs plant and they ave stacks of red,black,blue hoods fenders etc.

I have to respectfully disagree on your first part. A re-paint job definitely needs time before it can be waxed, to allow the solvents to completely evaporate from the paint. A wax company, Meguiar's backs this up. They are in the business of selling waxes and polishes, so they seem reliable when they say to wait before applying wax to a new paint job. They recommend 30 to 90 days, so I was incorrect with my 6 month timeframe.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...&threadid=3704

As for a new car, yes, you are correct about the amount of transit time being enough. Another piece of the puzzle I learned today is that new cars are baked at a much higher temp than re-paints, because they don't have all of the plastic and rubber parts attached yet that could melt. This greatly helps with the out-gassing of the solvents that is just not possible with a re-paint.

[CU Tiger]

Originally Posted by cartman

I have to respectfully disagree on your first part. A re-paint job definitely needs time before it can be waxed, to allow the solvents to completely evaporate from the paint. A wax company, Meguiar's backs this up. They are in the business of selling waxes and polishes, so they seem reliable when they say to wait before applying wax to a new paint job. They recommend 30 to 90 days, so I was incorrect with my 6 month timeframe.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...&threadid=3704

As for a new car, yes, you are correct about the amount of transit time being enough. Another piece of the puzzle I learned today is that new cars are baked at a much higher temp than re-paints, because they don't have all of the plastic and rubber parts attached yet that could melt. This greatly helps with the out-gassing of the solvents that is just not possible with a re-paint.

Well this will greatly depend on who is doing thee re-paint.
My hobby, passion, side income comes from buying semi-restoring and selling older cars, jeeps and trucks.
I usually do 3/year. The guy who does all my P&B work bkes everything at 325F for 4 hours. He pulls all plastic rubber, moldings prior to paint, (as any HIGH QUALITY paint job should) and Ive never had a problem. Hell on a truck he painted recently for me, he had on of his guys apply a protectant wax before I picked it up...

as always YMMV

[Wolfy]

Originally Posted by cartman

When it comes time to apply waxes and polishes, I have had nothing but great results from Zaino Brothers. It is a bit pricey, but the stuff is awesome.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

Second Zaino, used it for 5 years now.

You could get by with once a year with this stuff if you had to.

[Galaril]

One other question is there any problem with having a car waxed by a professionals in the cold temperatures of winter say high 30sF? I thought I heard that waxing a car even with buffers is better in warm temperatures?

[Shkspr]

[cartman]

Originally Posted by Galaril

One other question is there any problem with having a car waxed by a professionals in the cold temperatures of winter say high 30sF? I thought I heard that waxing a car even with buffers is better in warm temperatures?

The wax does flow better at higher temps, and there might be an issue with the wax not bonding well to the cold metal. But I'm sure there is a product out there for waxing cars in cold climates, I'm just not aware of one. Probably something derived from the formula for ski and snowboard waxes.