No, the game isn't being given a pass for having "a semblance of football".
The game is being reviewed as good because it has a variety of gameplay modes, presents interesting challenges to users, has interesting and balanced gameplay mechanics, and has a lot of depth and nearly infinite replay value.
These things transcend whatever genre of game you want to put Madden in. That's what mainstream video game review sites are looking for - is Madden an entertaining video game and worthy of purchase compared to all other options?
Hardcore fans of the genre will evaluate the game through a much more focused lens, yes, but that doesn't invalidate the opinion of the average video gamer or the mainstream video game reviewer, who may be introducing the game to a person who has never played it before.